Hmmm…, Your email address will not be published. I am working on a pipe organ that is probably over 100 years old, specifically the facade wood where I need to fabricate additional panels as part of augmenting the organ size.I have removed a filler strip of wood and shown it to several people who seem unable to identify the species, this was after I planed the back to reveal the full natural color and grain. No worries then. I believe my post in the forum a while back prompted you to test this out (though you mentioned that you had been wondering). In any case, I no longer, and will no longer use waxed shellac, since the unwaxed version is readily available. The customer however was not happy with that finish, although he only saw a picture of a small portion and not the whole table. The shellac does away with the blotchy finish of stain on raw pine. The table has stood up to 10 years of keys, change and cell phones being thrown at it as well as a fall to the floor when a rambunctious toddler got ahold of it. I figured I didn’t put enough shellac on, so I sanded off the poly, put another layer of shellac, and now the cloudiness was worse. I cant be bothered to apply acrylic on my nails first as they take me so long when doing my … I have never tried the waxed under poly but have been curious and now I must say I am still curious and will have to give it a try on something small to see for my self. Can you believe it is 2012 and people are still replying to your video??? Thank you again. Had to re-sand and then I sought water based stains. Your email address will not be published. But it is a finish that has been used on furniture for a very long time so I wouldn’t really consider it an inferior finish. Hard to say. I love the way that it looked because it made the table look antiqued. The term "cut" refers to the amount of alcohol you'll add to dried shellac to create a homemade mixture. Since you already have the test pieces made, there are a couple more things to try to make it more definitive. Don’t remember. If you stain first and then follow with shellac, it will make a good, classic topcoat for your bureau. But it might be an unpredictable problem that occurs only in certain environmental situations, or formula combinations. I figure I’ll mix the sealer coat 50/50 with alcohol which should get me something like a 1.5 lb cut from the 3 lb cut in the can. Simply put, shellac covers all. It was meant to do nothing more than to address the claims of absolute finish failure when using waxed shellac. Marc lives in a very dry place year round. Do I need to use a sanding sealer over the CN product? Shellac isn’t going to be all that durable near a sink. You can use one coat to seal the wood. Temperatures also can affect the wood, like here in MN which isexpansion and contraction country. I have tried literally any stain colors in the range minwax makes on walnut or mahogany of various species such as African, pgam,andi etc and still nothing comes even close in color. Also, seal coat works very well for French polishing if thinned down a bit with denatured alcohol–if you’re so inclined. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD’s, the message is always the same. Any way, a kind fellow at Zinsser told me that I could use that epoxy if I first used the Zinsser Sealcoat (de waxed shellac) to “trick” the epoxy and thus, ensuring a safe and strong bond… I’m almost scared to ask for any of your thoughts on this point specifically. as a novice the whole shellac idea is confusing. #1, If shellac is left in direct sunlight it will get extremely hard, if you wait to spray your urethane over that shellac without scuff sanding and it is brittle you will have adhesion problems. I’ve done water tests,heat gun tests, burn tests,extended water submersion tests,water ring tests and even let gorilla tape sit on a 6 foot length of board that had old motor oil on it. Its just frustrating when I put a disclaimer in there, and then someone has to come along and dissect it and question my understanding of the scientific method. I was even very specific that I was planning to use de-waxed shellac, but the response I got was not to use any shellac sealer coat under the poly at all, as “shellac is not very water resistant and makes the system weaker”. Wonder if the sanding between coats helped with the adhesion issue? This is the acrylic craft paint like you can buy at Wally World. I want to make one of these rooms into a bathroom/laundry room. Thankfully, I get replies on my older videos every day. Poly, lacquer, waterbased poly…. Then try to lift them with tape as soon as you take the mug off. Given this, please assume that any links leading you to products or services are affiliate links that we will receive compensation from. Apply the shellac to the surface following the wood grain and using full, even strokes. The guys at woodcraft seem unable to identify the species or my local exotic wood supplier. Do you have any ideas? The second would be to help prevent blotching. I think my point is that people hear what they want to hear…whether you made a disclaimer or not. Apply a thin, even coat of shellac over the food you're preserving. I basically only tested the method I would actually use, which could very well make the difference. I’m planning to buy one gallon of clear Zinsser shellac for use as a topcoat as well as a sealer. months?? I tried a test piece and it looks great but I’m not sure about the durability. So if you are after the additional color, you can still use dewaxed. I think I will at least put the boards out in the sun just to see what happens. It is durable, non-yellowing and imparts a warm glow to all wood surfaces. I normally try only to use poly when really needed, as when I built a oak top to my miniature reef aquarium or a surface that needs a tougher surface. I posted above that poly did indeed separate from the shellac sealer over time. Big up for conducting this “experiment” Marc…my wife’s a bio statistician and asked for your null / alternative hypothesis? I use Poly mostly for projects that are subject to extensive ware Or (childern) Join … The amber shellac gives me the perfect color i want and the polyurethane topcoat the scratch resistance I want. Forgive me for seeming a little dense on this subject but no one locally wants to get involved in what is a low paying church job so the ball falls in my lap. I do love my shellac, use it everywhere, and have not noticed any issues at all with adhesion with using water-based polyurethane (or solvent based for that matter, just don’t use it as much). Hi, Thanks Mark for all your videos, i try to see them all. I utilized the miniwax water based line from pre-conditioner to stain and then PRO finisher by Parks. Haven’t looked back since. The finish on many antiques is shellac, and it's usually the best finish to apply to your antique tabletop. When someone tells me this wasn’t a very scientific experiment and the result is only one insignificant data point, what I really want to say is, “No shi*!”. THEN, I started finishing the Colonial moulding. I then sanded some more. Isn’t there tinted dewaxed shellac for coloring of one chooses, or a stain? I suggest a book that every wood worker should have on its book shelf.. If that doesn’t work, throw them in the pool for a day and then the sun again. Being ignorant until this post, I did this on a set of pine stairs in my house. Match the wood back quart jars and seal well go with the same brand clear... Amount of wax in non-dewaxed shellac under poly if left in an “ unideal ”.! 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